cell stories turns one year old

Cell stories turned one year old today. They published one of my stories, Los Pitayeros last fall. I think it was the only story I’ve published where afterward I couldn’t read it (didn’t / don’t  have a droid / iphone).

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notes on walking up cerro perito moreno with the nena on my back

Pessoa: “I make landscapes out of what I feel.”

Yesterday I took the nena up to Cerro Perito Moreno. I’d woken her up early and she was tired. There was knee-deep snow and almost no wind, no clouds.

It was our first day as papi/hija without mami. You stayed back at home resting (or actually ‘nesting,’ getting doormats and baskets and clothespins).

After playing in the snow for a while the nena said “refugio,” and we went up to the shelter. We sat by the fire and ate chocolate. She kept talking about a girl we’d seen before who had a penguin doll. She remembered the name of the doll. She thought they’d still be there.

Later she called for the juajita. She wanted to sleep.  I took her out on my back and she was asleep in a few minutes. Out in the forest, snow was falling from tree branches. Each fall make a little glittering curtain. I hiked up several switchbacks and stopped at a vista looking across the valley. The precordillera was more snowed-over than I’ve ever seen before. There were thick avalanche trails in the notches.

I kept ascending. I thought about different things like how the people below were all sledding and crashing into each other in the same place, following the same lines.

From the way the snow was piled against the Cohiue trunks I could see from what direction the storm came.

I stopped again where an arm-sized stream of melt-water was pouring through an open place in the hillside, then disappearing in the snow below my feet. I could feel the nena’s belly moving against my back with each inhalation and exhalation. I wrote in my journal:

keep
breathing
words

It seemed like a good combination of sounds and ideas.

Keep breathing words.
Breathing words keep.
Breathing keep words.
Words breathing keep.
Keep words breathing.
Words keep breathing.

There was the water sound, the nena breathing, the huge ridges in every direction, my boots in knee-deep snow.

Sometimes you can feel yourself as a tiny animal breathing for a few seconds on earth.

Later I went back down and could feel her waking up, squirming.

Whenever she wakes up I always whisper to her.

“Hey baby, we’re in the forest,” I whispered. “How are you?”

“Good,” she whispered back.

“Do you want to get down?”

“No,” she whispered.

I looked back and could see her looking at snow falling from branches, the glittering.

I think this is all we’ll ever have.

And it’s enough.

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Posted in Patagonia, writing | 3 Comments

travel ojos lists contributors / topics for ‘Latin America at Ground Level’

Steven Roll has just posted the contributors and story outlines for the upcoming eBook on Latin America.

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notes on tierra negra

I ask Abuela Colque if she knows whose tierra negra¹ is piled in the street in front of our houses.

Can I take some?

And can I borrow their wheelbarrow also?

(I just assume they have a wheelbarrow because they work the fields.)

Read More »

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transparent narrative writing contest at matador

The first writing contest Matador has sponsored in over a year, the Transparent Narrative contest prize is $300 plus tuition to MatadorU.

Deadline: Sept 10

No bullshit entry fee.

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notes on the chacra next door, stoking with Layla

I had on my hunting boots.

Layla had on a dress that was too small for her, panties, and her Dorothy shoes.¹

She was playing with rocks in the driveway.

I’d just handwashed and hung out to dry two loads of clothes.

There was an hour left of sun.

Read More »

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Posted in Patagonia, writing | 6 Comments

stoke report 6 Aug 2010

right now i’m stoked on:

(a) this story by Blake Butler

(b) the latest blog poast by Sarah Menkedick

(c) new tracks from Deerhunter

(d) proposition 8 being ruled unconstitutional

(e) dude planning to freefall from space

(f) Daniel Britt’s notes on hanging with mercenaries in iraq

(g) late winter conditions at cerro catedral

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snowboarding with layla

I’ve sort of dreamed about this moment. Getting Layla on the board for the first time. But then when we were actually up at Perito Moreno I seemed to forget I’d thought about it before and we were just hiking up this service road. I took the board just in case we reached the top (from there I could jump up on the T-bar).

We were in this Cohiue forest, soft-packed snow in the middle of the roadbed, a half a foot of powder along the banks. Nobody around. The angle of the roadbed and the conditions were perfect.

In Argentina they call sledding “culo patin,” or ass-sliding. We went for it.

Immediately after the first culo-patin-ride she was saying “otra vez, otra vez.” We walked back up and I told her we could try snowboarding. There’s almost no better feeling than a board floating up in the pow and carving these big quiet turns in the middle of the forest. Check the size of that Cohiue in the background. I heard Layla give her first “Yoohooooo!” as we hit this particular turn with a bit more speed and flow.

This shot below gives a good sense of how the terrain is here in Rio Negro, Patagonia. On the horizon is the pre-cordillera, a comb-ridge / extended range of flatirons with different sections (Los Repollos, Cerro Piltriquitron). On the other side of that is the pampas, the desert. The valley in between is this super fertile farmland, the basin containing El Bolson, Lago Puelo, El Hoyo, and to the North, Bariloche.

The mountain we’re riding is the shoulder of the Andes. The peaks(and the border with Chile) are another 2 hours’ ascent. The terrain here is temperate rainforest. The understory has these Caña Colihue plants, or canebrakes. Out of all the tree-riding I’ve ever done, I think this terrain is my favorite. There are creekbeds everywhere, which, when filled in with snow, create these long serpentine waves and ramps and gulleys through the forest.

————–

notes:

1. all photos by lau bernhein
2. if i’d thought about it beforehand i would’ve brought layla’s helmet. not that it wasn’t safe (it was super safe), but just to start the ‘protocol’ from the very first day: you go riding, you wear a helmet.

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Posted in Patagonia, stoke | 7 Comments

news: my blog was hacked. mixtape writing is dead.

‘Sup out there?

Operating on Stoke got hacked last week. Sorry for anyone who opened this blog and got a warning message. I’ve since had it scanned for malware (various times) and we’re good to go again.

The only thing is that in all the hours and frustration of trying to get everything restored, the subdomain site MIXTAPE WRITING ended up getting “nuked.”

Thanks to everyone who participated in that project.

Alright, getting back into the flow.

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Notes on Abuelo Colque

Published a new note at the Traveler’s Notebook: Notes on Abuelo Colque.

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