Feels like another ‘chapter’ is closing and damn if it can’t come fast enough and yet still feels like it’s all too fast. Yesterday was 2001 and Lau and I had just met. She thought I was from Albania or something. Saw me just after I’d gotten out of the water from 4 hour surf. I was shivering. She said I looked like I’d ‘suffered.’ I explained to her later that even though the water was warm you actually got cold when you were out long enough. Later I brought her back to this secret camp in Cerritos and cooked arroz y frijoles with garlic and onions and a little bit of saltwater. We built fires, got better at keeping sand out of food, decided to keep going. Whenever I came back from surfing she’d always have camp tightened.
Last week Julie Schwietert sent me a quote she’d dug up from I’d given in an interview I gave a couple years ago.
“Thinking back on it, the root of our marriage was the desire to make a life out of just what we had – which was very little…traveling together, finding our way.”


